Ramblings

March 2011


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Thursday – Wightwick Manor, Wolverhampton – A house and gardens on the western edge of the city of Wolverhampton. From the outside, the house looks like a large old house, maybe Jacobean or even Tudor in period, but was actually built in 1887. The Domesday Book records land held at Wisteuuic in the King’s manor of Tettenhall Regis. A small Wightwick Manorestate developed, owned by a family who took their name from the place, now called Wightwick. The family became prosperous and produced a succession of prominent churchmen and scholars including Rev Richard Wightwick, founder of Pembroke College, Oxford in 1624. The old manor house was built in the early 17th century based on the mediaeval house. The property was sold to the Hinkes family in 1815. Theodore Mander of the varnish, paint and inks company, Mander Brothers, bought the estate, including 100 acres, in 1887. Theodore Mander had married a Canadian, Flora St Clair Paint in 1879. They built their new house next to the old manor house. Mander was a Liberal who became mayor of Wolverhampton. He was influenced by John Ruskin and took a keen interest in modern arts, so when decorating the house, the Mander used the catalogue of William Morris and Company. Thus the house is a glorious show piece of Morris’ wall fabric, arts and crafts design and pre-Raphaelite art. Much of the art was purchased by Theodore and Flora’s son Geoffrey’s second wife Rosalie who bought Pre-Raphaelite pieces, which were unpopular until relatively recently, for a song.

Theodore died in Wightwick Manor1900 at the early age of 47 following an operation (which took place on the kitchen table) for a liver abscess. Flora died just 5 years later, also at the age of 47. The house was designed by Edward Ould in the Old English style of half-timbering, tile-hanging, stone and brick and was extended in 1893. Ould was building Port Sunlight for Lord Leverhulme at the time. It was built with electric lights and central heating, very advanced for that time. The house was the first to be accepted under the National Trust’s Country House Scheme wherein the previous owners continue to have use of the building. It is said that the Trust were not keen on acquiring the house as Victorian architecture was held in low regard at that time. Renovations have now taken place starting at the end of the 1980s which enabled more of the house to be opened to visitors. The sheer extent of the items on display at Wightwick Manor cannot be taken in on a single visit – indeed we did not look at the gardens at all. They were designed by T.H. Mawson but the plans were never fully implemented. Currently the Trust gardeners are restoring Mawson’s design whilst trying to maintain the changes made by Geoffrey Mander. The original Manor house has been restored and is now used as a shop and restaurant. Currently there is a small but exquisite display of William Morris and Company wares curated by Sandersons. Arthur Sanderson and Company were commissioned to wallpapers for William Morris in 1930 and bought the pattern books and printing blocks from the receiver when Morris went into liquidation in 1940. Sanderson continue to produce Morris’s designs by traditional block printing methods.

Friday – The Malvern Hills – It is cool but dry as I start up the track that leads from a car park below North Hill Quarry. The crags of the quarry tower above. The track rises steadily through mainly young trees which have been thinned recently. One shrub is bursting into leaf. The woods block all views but the noise of a busy town can be heard rising from far below. A gap appears in the woods and Great Malvern is laid out towards Worcestershire across the Severn and Avon Vales to the Cotswolds. However, the views are all hazy with mist. Rocks beside the path are dotted with the circular leaves of Pennywort. PennywortA path turns back on the main track and rises more quickly. It zigzags up the side of North Hill eventually joining Lady Howard de Walden Drive Lady Howard de Walden was an eccentric woman who lived in an impressive house in West Malvern, now St James and the Abbey School, and paid for a carriageway to be built between West Malvern and St Ann’s Well in the 1890s. I drop down from the track northwards and climb up the gentle slope to End Hill, the northernmost tip of the hills. Far below is Old Hollow, a lane that runs through the village of West Malvern. The path crosses a low dyke as one approaches End Hill, I can find no reference to it anywhere. Backtrack and up Table Hill, down to the path and up North Hill. Must climb to each summit – I do not know why, just have to do it! The long slope back down from this summit allows a decent kick of the ball which sends Maddy hurtling some 70 yards down the grass slope.

Crows are calling off the edge of the hills and a single GorseMeadow Pipit flies over, calling. There is another dyke at the base of North Hill. There are more people here on the hills than I would see all day in the North Herefordshire/South Shropshire Hills. The next summit is Sugarloaf Hill and then the highest climb is up to Worcestershire Beacon. As the top is approached all the grass and gorse is painted white with ice. A toposcope stands on a marble base erected for Victoria’s Jubilee in 1897. The inscription also declares this is the highest point of the Malvern Hills at 1395 feet. The north wind is bitterly cold up here. Down Worcestershire Beacon and onto Summer Hill. Another dyke runs along by the path. It is called Shire Ditch and runs along much of the top of the ridge of the hills. Also called The Red Earl’s Dyke, it was constructed in 1287 by Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester in a boundary dispute with Thomas de Cantilupe, Bishop of Hereford. Recent examination of the dyke has Calfsuggested it may be a far older prehistoric trackway between British Camp and Worcester Beacon. From here I take the track past a herd of shaggy cows and fat sheep and head down the Green Valley. This leads to St Ann’s Well. The well was supposed to have been discovered in 1086 by Aldwyn of Malvern and named in the mid 18th century after a chapel in Malvern Priory. Another story says that it is named after the hill above, Tan Hill named supposedly after Tanfana, the Belgic God of Fire. A building was constructed in 1813 to house the spring which now bubbles out into a rather grotesque Sicilian marble spout and basin which was installed in 1892, gift of Lady Foley. The water was formally bottled by the now defunct company of Burrows until the 1950s. Further down the hill, tree roots are exposed as they pierce through the rocky soil. Back into the town and along the road back towards North Hill quarry. A mile stone with a cast iron face stands on the inner edge of the pavement telling me it is only 8 miles to Worcester Cross. Up the hill a set of stocks sits on a green protected by a sturdy iron fence. The sun is now shining brightly.

Sunday – Leominster – The first daffodil has opened its sunshine coloured trumpet in the garden, a herald of spring. It is a difficult time of year in the garden. Bright sunshine and emerging leaves make the sap flow and says let’s get going. Then a hard frost overnight reminds us that winter may be officially over but it can still reach out and nip before it is finally driven off. This means the apricot needs a fleece wrapping overnight to protect the fresh young buds and shoots. Hellebores are in flower as are some Winter Aconites. The snowdrops are nearly finished but the crocuses are still providing a bright display. Finally, some broad beans are emerging in the pots in the greenhouse. The autumn sown bed produced not a single shoot. The garlic planted a couple of weeks ago to fill in the gaps in the autumn sown cloves has already caught up with the earlier sowing. Peas in a guttering in the greenhouse are about sprout. The sowings of peppers in the bathroom has not been so successful, it seems that none of the saved seed was viable, but there is still time to get some fresh seed. The Sunday morning market has reopened on Easters Meadows, or Brightwell’s car park as it is now known! I stagger back with a rucksack full of fruit and beetroot. Another gallon of cider is bottled – it is a lovely batch! Kay is very impressed with it, which is worrying, having to share my cider! Whatever next! Unfortunately, it seems the chickens are not encouraged by the spring weather – we are down to one egg a day. Drastic action seems to be edging closer.

Crossbill

Monday – Mortimer Forest – A cloudless blue sky and bright sun but the chill of a sharp overnight frost has yet to lift. Jays and Common Buzzards call from the woods. Tits squeak high in Larches. A Raven flies through the trees looking huge. Green shoots and leaves are emerging by the track; identification is not always easy but I think there is Dog Mercury, Ground Elder and White Dead Nettle. Maddy is in the pool. She seems to have taken to the idea of going for a swim. Yellow Flag leaves are just emerging from the water margins, some can be seen still several inches below the surface. A murder of Crows sit at the Chaffinchtop of the hill, each on top of its own tree. They call to one another as if debating their next move. The surrounding woods ring with the calls of Great Tits. Up a steep track through the Deer Park. It is deeply gouged by tyre tracks and churned by horses but cuts out quite a large bend in the path. It is busy by the track that leads up to High Vinnalls. Redpolls, a beautiful red-breasted male Crossbill, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Blue Tits and singing Chaffinches all within a few yards. Up towards the summit a Skylark sings then is mobbed by several others. A Carrion Crow bobs on a tree top. A large branch has been ripped off a Spruce. I can only assume it was recent winds although it seems odd that a relatively young tree should have suffered such damage. The views are limited, the hills are obscured by mist. Down Climbing Jack Common where Skylarks continue to rise filling the air with sweet song. Mary Knoll Valley looks peaceful, nothing seems to stir.

Wednesday – Bodenham Lakes – Grey clouds glide across the sky. It rained overnight. Canada Geese can be heard long before being seen. A flock is in front of the hide but soon take off noisily. They disappear but do not go far, there is little diminution of the noise level. A couple of Cormorants sit on the pontoon, another is in the trees. A pair of Tufted Duck drift off to the island leaving just a pair of Mallard on the shingle bank. Opening the hide window awakens them and they swim off. The only other waterfowl in sight are a few Coot, so it seems the wintering ducks have all departed. Once there is some cover between the listener and the lake many other songs can be heard rather than the overwhelming cacophony of the Canada Geese – Dunnocks, Greenfinch, Blue Tit, Goldfinch, Chaffinches, Song Thrush, Great Tit and a drumming Woodpecker. Hawthorns have swelling buds and a few have burst into bright green leafs. A military helicopter roars low overhead resulting in an explosion of Wood Pigeons from Westfield Wood.

Friday – Croft – In the early morning the sun rose into a blue sky but now clouds are forming and the sun is intermittent. A Mistle Thrush, Blackbirds, Great and Blue Tits, Nuthatches and a drumming Woodpecker all fill the air with their greetings, declaring I am here. Ransoms are emerging in their thousands by the track. Several Nuthatches, a Great Spotted Woodpecker and a Great Tit are all creeping their way up tree trunks like mice. As the path approaches the edge of Leinthall Common the cloud thickens and it gets darker. The bird song dies away leaving near silence punctuated with brief chirps, cheeps and caws. A small pond is surrounded by dead trees, all emerald with thick coatings of moss. On the edge of the hill, trees that fell and uprooted at least three years ago have branches full of leaf buds about to burst. A breeze across Croft Ambrey creates a chill and it starts to rain.

Monday – Ryelands – Blue skies and a brilliant sun follow a clear and frosty dawn. There is still a fallen tree across the path along the ridge. Another dead tree in the paddock is not going to remain upright much longer, the base is rotted right through. Beside the paddock is an old quarry now blended into the landscape. Jackdaws chack in branches above. A woodpecker drums. Blue Tits chatter. A Song Thrush’s liquid and repeating notes come from across the hillside. A Green Woodpecker yaffles. Out of the hedge-lined path onto the open ridge. Eastwards the field has been ploughed. Westwards the slope is grass. Skylarks sing overhead. The line of scarp slopes with their headlands, Burton Hill, Merbach Hill then Hay Bluff proceeds westward. Down past Cock Croft House and across Passa Lane. A notice tells that there are paths, public and permissive, to allow walkers to reach Ivington and back to Leominster without travelling on the roads. The fields down near the River Arrow are being managed as flood meadows to attract breeding birds such as Curlew, although I am yet to see or hear one here. A foot path leads back to the Hereford Road at Broadward Hall. Broadward Hall Farm is a registered organic farm supplying a local box scheme. Back toward the town and along the empty roads into the Enterprise Park Industrial Estate. Many plots have yet to be sold and many of the units that have been built are empty. This seems unlikely to change in the present financial climate.

Home – Spring advances with possibly the most iconic symbol, a butterfly. Yesterday a Brimstone flew through, today a Small Tortoiseshell suns itself on a primula. The broad beans that were sown in pots in the greenhouse are now large enough to be planted out. Some lettuces have been transplanted into the outdoor bed, under a cloche. A couple of rows of parsnip seed are sown under the same cloche.

Tuesday – Cleobury Mortimer – We have passed through this Shropshire town several times and not stopped, so today we decide to visit. The name is possibly Old English, clifu meaning a cliff. However, the derivation may well be the same as Clee, the nearby hills, which as discussed before may come from a ball-shaped massif from the Old English cliewen meaning a loom weight, which were often ball-shaped. The Oxford Dictionary of English Place-names is undecided. A plaque in the town suggests that clai comes from clay, although this is unlikely to be the derivation of the Clee name as the hills are anything but clay! The Mortimer part of the name is much Spireclearer. The manor belonged to Queen Edith pre-Conquest but was given to Roger de Mortimer by William. It was fortified with a castle built by Ralph Mortimer which was destroyed by Henry II in 1155. The manor passed to the Blounts and then to the Lacon-Childe family. We enter the High Street beside The Talbot, a 16th century coaching inn. The High Street has a pleasant mixture of buildings and a decent selection of shops, but is a very busy road badly affected by heavy lorries. A little way along the street is the Market Hall housing the now closed Tourist Information Office. A plaque on the wall commemorates The Volunteers of the Cleobury Mortimer Company who served in the Boar War, 1900-02. Next door is the church of St Mary. It dates from 1160 and is a typical late Norman church that was ruined by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1874-5 when the Weeping Crossthree-decker pulpit, box pews, west gallery (containing the organ) and the wall plaster were all destroyed. There is supposed to be a stone coffin by the north aisle, but I can find no trace. There are some mediaeval tiles around the Victorian font. The church’s crowning glory is a twisted spire caused by dry-rot and warping in the oak timbers. A plaque in the porch relates that William Langland (1332-1400), writer of The Dreams of Piers Ploughman, was supposed to have been born in Cleobury Mortimer. Behind the church, gravestones have been used as steps and a footbridge to the north door. Nearly opposite the church is the old well, a pool fed by a spring which rather unfortunately comes from the graveyard. A pumphouse was built in 1900 to filter the water. The source was found to have excessive nitrates in 1979 and water was then taken from the Elan Valley pipeline and subsequently from the River Severn at Trimpley. Up the road a particularly fine town house has been used as a nursing home but now looks abandoned. Outside the Talbot stands the base of a Weeping Cross erected to commemorate the passing of the body of Price Arthur, brother of Henry VII, in 1502. Nearby is a pink marble water fountain.

Neen Sollars – This splendidly named village lays a few miles south of Cleobury Mortimer. The name comes from Neen the former name of the River Rea which flows by the village. Formally, the village was known as Neen Baldwin from the Baldwin Le Poer who received from Osbern Fitz Hugh. Around 1200, two of Baldwin’s daughters, Elena and Eustacia Baldwin both married into the De Solers family and the village became Neen Sollars. The third daughter of Baldwin, Petronella married a de Freyne. In Saxon times the manor was in the hundred of Condetret and was held by Siward the Saxon, who held large estates in Shropshire, some of them under the Bishop of Worcester. The Domesday records The same Osbern holds Nene, and Siward holds it of him. The same Siward held it, and was a free man. The manor Churchwas never hidaged, nor ever paid geld. There is arable land for five ox-teams. In demesne is one team, and ten serfs,and a mill paying a bushel of corn. In King Edward’s time the manor was worth 40s. per annum. Now it is worth 18s. The fact the manor had not paid Danegeld indicates it was probably church land. There was a Herald’s Visitation in 1623 which gave the pedigree of Coningsby of Neen Sollars. The Old Smithy stands on the junction of the Cleobury Mortimer road and the Tenbury road. It was formally a Toll House but Monumentit appears locals managed to avoid the junction and hence, the tolls and it closed. Tall tapered chimneys rise above a roof coloured bright green by lichen. Opposite a meadow with a few apple trees rises up the hill. Two fat sheep graze within. The road to Neens Hill passes Neen Court, a Victorian house built in black brick with yellow decoration. On down the hill there is the embankment of the railway. Trees are being felled on the side of the embankment. The railway was built on the bed of a canal which was built in 1790 as part of the grand project to join Stourport with Leominster and Kington. It closed in 1858, the railway opened in 1864 and closed a century later. The station buildings are now a private residence. Just beyond is the river, which joins the Teme at Newnham Bridge. Back up the road is the church of All Saints. It is from the 14th century and likely stands on a Saxon church of which nothing remains. The first rector was Thomas de Linggeyn in 1278. There is a lovely painted chancel, both walls and roof. There is a very old bell in the belfrey, dating from around 1350. A second is dated 1560 and a third 1649. In the south transept is a magnificent monument to Humphrey Coningsby. Sir William Coningsby had been knighted on the field of Crecy in 1346. Sir William had married Beatrice, daughter of Ingelram de Frene of Neen Sollar. Several generations later, Humphrey was known as a great traveller. The monument has an extraordinary inscription:

Wednesday – Bodenham Lakes – Rooks, Crows and Magpies are all seen carrying nesting material on the way to Bodenham. By the car park a Robin sings and a Great Spotted Woodpecker drums. A pair of Wigeon are on the main area of Willowlake along with Coot, Mute Swans, a pair of Tufted Duck and the ever-present Canada Geese. The latter are mainly in pairs but still keep up a cacophonous noise. Maddy goes into the water and starts collecting sticks and, weirdly a feather which she deposits on the bank. I need to be careful as at the moment there is little problem with her swimming here, but in the summer there is usually a build-up of blue-green algae, poisonous to dogs, and I do not want her swimming then! Pussy Willows are yellow with blossom. There are a pair of Canada Geese on the shingle bank in front of the hide and the noise level rises as another pair approach. However the new pair take the hint and move off, but then the original pair make even more noise and take off across the water and away. A drake Gadwall is with some Wigeon in the distance. A pair of Cormorants are on the pontoon and another in the trees, this one showing the white patch below the wings indicating a breeding bird. With the Canada Geese gone from the shingle, a Pied Wagtail starts strutting around seeking food. Back along the hedgerow by the paddock, several Dunnock are singing. Blackthorn is coming into flower, white buds about to burst. A large Bumble Bee burrows into the leaf mould under the hedge.

Friday – Bringewood Chase – Burrington - Off along the track at Hazel Coppice. Robins, Chaffinches, tits and Carrion Crows fill the air with springtime calls. The Silurian siltstones of the Lower Bringewood Beds are exposed by the track. It looks like the stone has suffered the ravages of winter frosts becoming broken and friable. Trees are coming into leaf and several escaped Ornamental Blackcurrants are in flower. Not all trees are showing signs of a new season, some Silver Birches remain skeletons and an Oak sapling remains covered with the brown, crinkled leaves of yesteryear. Above Monstay farm a hollow way runs down the hill. It continues up through Bringewood and according to the 1890 map, swung round and headed up the hillside towards the present day triangulation point above Wheelers Vallet. I take the track down to Burrington. This is Violetsan old road – the current Forestry track ran from Gorsty by the entrance to Hazel Coppice to Bringewood Cottage now demolished and on to Hunstay Cottage, which I think has also gone. The road I take runs down to Burrington Common. A pair of Mistle Thrushes rasp as they fly over. The windmill stands motionless on the hillside near Leinthall Starks. It is motionless for a reason even better than no wind – it is a mock mill, a mill built as a residential building never intended to operate as a windmill. A good numbers of the fences are woven Hazel with stems from ancient stools that have been coppiced. The track drops steadily between fields. Numerous Common Pheasants run across the fields. Past New House where all the barns and outhouses are undergoing renovation. Further down Farm Houseare more exposed banks of limestone, rather more nodular than higher up, as these are Wenlock Limestone beds. Primroses are blossoming on a sheltered bank. A large raft of frog-spawn floats on a pond. After a short length of road which levels out it begins to drop again. White and palest purple Violets grow on a rocky bank. The road bends and Burrington lies below. Large patches of traditionally coloured Violets now adorn the banks. A large Bumble Bee visits one. Henbit Dead-Nettle is also in flower. The village seems small, a farm, a few large houses and a few cottages near the church. However, at one time it had enough of a population to support a school, now a private residence and a church. The farm house is a long building, of several different styles, now split into cottages. Nearby a Victorian post box is in a wall. The church of St George is largely Victorian. It was in poor repair and the landlord, Sir Andrew Broughton HeadstoneKnight of Downton Castle and parishioners brought in George Frederick Bodley 1827-1907, a renown architect who had built the nearby vicarage in 1862, to restore the building in 1874. A local gentleman tells me that in the event they fell out. The involvement of Bodley is also doubted by Pevsner who notes that Pountney Smith rebuilt the chancel in 1855 and the nave looks to be by the same hand. Outside are a row of iron headstones, once inside the church, now laid at the east end. Details of the headstone
1. to Robert Steward, died 1619
2. to Joyce Walker, died 1658 with scalloped rim
3. to Maria Hare, died 1674, with moulded rim
4. to Jane and Barbara Knight, died 1701 and 1705, with moulded rim
5. to Ralph Knight, died 1754, with broad ornate border
6. to Jane Hare, died 1678, with moulded rim
7. to Richard Knight, died 1745, with broad ornate border; similar to 5
8. to William Walker, died 1676, with moulded rim
All slabs, apart from 2, have coats-of-arms reliefs
They were made at Downton forge, a major ironworking centre in the district, by the owner of headstone number 7, Richard Knight. Apparently, the forge was very unpopular with the locals because of the noise the water-driven trip-hammers made. The gentleman tells me that in dry weather, the remains of charcoal pits can be seen on nearby hills. Unfortunately, the churchwarden is interviewing architects in the church and has left her dogs in the porch. Leaving Maddy with them is not an option so I do not get to see the interior. Of course, having dropped down so far from Bringewood, I now have to climb back up again. The road passes a couple of old quarries, one quite large one just up from the village. Last year’s Carline Thistle sits by the road looking like it had flowered only a short time ago. Nearing Bringewood a Common Buzzard flies out across the valley. Wood Pigeons coo in the wood around a pond below. It is cloudy but there are enough breaks to allow the sun to shine. It is warm enough for Maddy to seek shade when we pause but not too warm to play ball.

Pergola

Saturday – Home – The blacksmith arrived today with our new pergola. The old rose arch collapsed last year under the weight of the huge rambling rose that had completely covered it. It was a standard garden centre model made of thin tubular metal. The new one is green painted steel and looks like it will withstand pretty much anything. Of course, in these days of rampant inflation (relative to interest rates that is, we are not yet back to the old days of 15%!) the price is Hellebore20% more than the quote but we still think it is good value. We need another rose now for the other side. Parsnips have been sown; they are very slow to germinate so I am not expecting anything to happen soon. A row of lettuce has been planted out between the two rows of parsnip seed but something has already munched the ones by the entrance of the cloche. Broad beans and peas have germinated well in the greenhouse and been transplanted into the bed. Trenches have been dug for potatoes, but I will wait at least another week before planting. There is a large pile of soil near the compost bins that came from the hole made for the pond. One of the bins was emptied this week so some of the fresh compost went onto the pile of soil. It will make a good spot for a couple of squash plants. The moon is huge just above the horizon when I take Maddy out for her evening walk. It is a Super Perigee Moon, which means it is at the closest to the earth of its elliptical orbit. It happens every 21 years – rarer than a Blue Moon!

Sunday – Leominster – It is trying to rain. There is a terrific noise coming from the direction of the Millennium Park. It turns out to be a Colas rail tamping machine on the railway. A large yellow engine with a mechanism halfway down its body that first lifts the track to align it then tools are sent into the ballast either side of the lifted sleeper and the ballast tamped down under Wellthe sleeper to provide a secure bed. The unit moves just a few inches from sleeper to sleeper, creeping down the track. Driving one of them cannot be the most exciting job going, although these days it seems that any job is worth having! A new path is being laid along Pinsley Meads beside the old Priory hospital. It is nice not to have to slide across the slick mud that is created every winter. I head off to the market. Sadly a black cat has not been lucky and lies dead beside the road. At the market I go to my usual vegetable stall. He has a couple of cabbages for a quid. He asks me what variety I want, I respond it does not matter, they are for the chickens. So he gives me four smaller ones for the pound, and then picks up half a box of Romaine lettuce and asks Any good?. Certainly are and the chickens will have a week of greens now. The other day Kay told me about a plaque in the ground in Corn Square and today I have a good look at it. As she said, it covers an 18th century stone-lined well that used to provide water for the square. Odd we never noticed it before, she comments. Later in the morning, as the sun shines and warms the air, one of the Heralds of Spring, the Chiffchaff, sings in the garden.

Monday – Weobley – Cloud covers the sky. The sun is hidden but the luminous edges of clouds indicates its position. Across the field beyond the castle mounds. A rookery in Chestnut Covert, a small wood to the east of the field, is noisy. A WellingtoniasChiffchaff calls from the opposite direction. Overhead a Wood Pigeon claps its wings with a crack. The path continues across Garnstone park. An ancient pollarded Oak stands in the field. In the distance at the edge of Chestnut Covert, probably part of the garden of the old East Lodge, is a fruit tree, cherry maybe, covered in blossom. A woodpecker drums up ahead. A melanistic pheasant crosses the field. The path turns westwards. To the south is a fine house in the woods but it is abandoned and turning into a ruin. The path passes another large house with a walled garden and turns south-east across a field of sprouting grain. The next field is grass but has the look of somewhere landscaped. The ruined house is at the bottom of an avenue of Oaks which lead back up to a sown field. On the other side are three Wellingtonias aligned with the avenue. Back down the slope, to the east of the house, is a lake. Beyond is a wood called Sallybed. The layout of any road by the Wellingtonias is unclear. However, a later look at the 1890 map shows a road running east-west with a off-set crossroads at the site of the Wellingtonias. The field above was a deer park. The house appears to be all that is left of Garnstone Castle, designed by John Nash for Samuel Peploe in 1807 and demolished in 1958. The previous house here was the seat of the Birch family, whose members included Colonel John Birch of the Parliamentary Army in the Civil War. He took Hereford from the Cavaliers in 1545.

A track runs up into the wood, called Winsland. A Raven calls from the top of one of the Wellingtonias sounding Cottagelike someone striking a steel pipe. The track enters a conifer plantation. The air is full of the high pitched squeaking of Goldcrests. Pheasants croak from the undergrowth. A spur off the track climbs steeply to the top of the ridge, Burton Hill. There are numerous patches of mud lower down on the path and most patches contain hoof prints from deer. A track runs along the top of the hill to a triangulation point. Ahead a very pale backed pheasant runs through the trees. The path descends the hill steeply past several old quarries. Good numbers of Chiffchaffs are calling. At the bottom of the hill is a covered reservoir, around which is a pretty display of daffodils. The 1950s map shows the area below the reservoir was a rifle range. A sunken track leads down to a small lane past a lovely but abandoned cottage on Shoals Bank. Just beyond is another cottage with extensions various styles added over the years with a stone apple crusher outside. I take the road back to Weobley. There are a number of delightful houses along the route. Many are the typical local black-and-white half-timbered houses, including an impressive large farm house at Fenhampton. At Fernhill is a lovely brick built house with black brick decoration. Across the field towards the hills is Fields End farm and yet another empty and boarded up house! A track heads back to the fields south of the castle and past a small coppice called The Folly.

Tuesday – Upper Wye Valley – We head down to the bridge across the River Wye at Bridge Sollars and then on down to Madley. I visited this village before and gave some background, but on that occasion I was unable to visit the magnificent church of The Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary however today it is open. Tomb Chest Some reckon this to be the finest church building in Herefordshire and it is very fine indeed. The first church here would have been a wooden meeting house probably first built in the 6th century. The first stone church was Norman and built sometime between 1050 to 1100 CE. A small window and arch above the main door is from this first stone building. Two pillars inside have joints running down them which was probably the chancel arch of the old church which was cross&#